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Tag Archives: release
Shooting Strangers?
I was sitting with photographer Robert Brown and he asked if I had ever been confronted when taking photos in public. Yes, well kind of. Most people don’t pay attention, some are politely curious. I can only ever recall a few occasions that might have been out of the ordinary.
One situation was a wobbly young man with slurred accusations. That was easy. Pick up and walk away. You can’t negotiate with a giant walking martini.
“Like a showdown at the OK Corral we were shooting each other.”
Another interesting event was in the heart of downtown Toronto. A security guard came out with a camera and began taking my picture, so I took his. I was in a public space on a sidewalk and well within my rights like any tourist, from a courtesy and legal perspective . He was clicking away and walking towards me. Like a showdown at the OK Corral we were shooting each other.
Face to face, he began asking questions and asked for personal information – out of bounds lets say. However, I gave him more information than he might have ever wanted including my business card with an invitation to visit some of my websites and maybe join me for an online course. And don’t forget, the secret weapon – smile.
In my mind, barely a confrontation.
Most strangers are just friends we haven’t met yet.

Would you ask a stranger on the street if you could take their photo?
Photography is a great way to engage others. People are so much more than what we see on the surface. It’s marvelous how total strangers on the streets of a big metro city can be so open and willing to share.
How to approach someone you don’t know about taking their photo.
How do I ask?
When taking photos in public places, anyone can see what I’m doing. And it strikes their curiosity. They want to get in my head. What is so interesting? Take your camera into a busy place anywhere on the planet, point it up to the sky and you’ll notice many heads will look up with you.
Always smile. Say “Hello” and “How are you?”, get some small talk going. More often than not, the person asks me something about what it is I’m photographing. Great segue and a good sign. I prefer not to rush into asking them if I can take their photo. That’s personal. You can build a lot of rapport in five minutes. I haven’t been turned down.
What are you going to do with the pictures?
My explanation goes something like this:
“I take a lot of photos. Most of them get deleted. Occasionally, some turn out really well. I don’t expect to do anything with these commercially, because this is casual photography I do just for fun. If you like, I’ll give you my card or I can take your contact information. If something turns out nicely, I’ll let you know. I’d gladly give you a print.”
That usually seals the deal. I’m not spelling this out so you can have a script.
Just tell it like it is.
Getting serious and using a release form.
I have list of ideas for photo imagery I want to create that will involve people. I might want to use a release form. These creative projects would be staged, perhaps in the studio or other locations. Still casual and for my own amusement and self promotion. I would likely consider using a release form. Most people are enthused to participate in creative projects and I would certainly provide them with a print of the best outcome(s). Commissioned commercial photography is whole different show.
A sample release form.
Here’s a very simple sample release form. Click this link to download. I’m not a lawyer although I do play one on TV, so do your homework and have fun.
Thanks for sharing your questions and comments here on the community blog. That’s a wrap!
Posted in Articles & News, Marc's Photos and Galleries
Also tagged brown, corral, download, form, giant, guard, martini, model, OK, Photography, robert, security, shooting, strangers, street, toronto, walking
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How About A Full 360 Photograph?
Found a great spot with the latest urban graffiti and street art. Return to the back alleys of Queen Street in Toronto – that’s the place.
The 360 panorama you’re going to see totaled about 25 shots and consumes significant computing power for digital stitching, HDR and editing in general.
First, some notes about how to view this.
About Viewing The Toronto Back Alley 360 Degree Photo:
The full width of this extreme panorama won’t fit in this blog without extreme reduction in the width dimension. So click on the image below to launch a full view. If you have dial up, it could take a couple of minutes to load into your internet browser. Cable and high speed should still be fairly fast for this 1 megabyte optimized photo. Then use the scroll bar to view the whole width.
(Note: if your internet browser resizes image to fit, don’t bother with this image link).
(Click on the image below to launch and view the full 360 degree photo)
How to shoot a 360 panaroma
What Marc used:
- Tripod
- Remote shutter release (Or use the Self Timer Function)
- Panning head on tripod
- Wide angle lens
Shooting the 360 degree panaroma
How Marc set up and took the shot sequence:
- Set in the center on two intersecting alleyways.
- Note your starting point for the first shot.
- Ensure that each shot overlaps content. Lots of overlap is good.
- This 360 was about 25 shots total.
- Use a relatively wide angle focal length. This was about 26mm.
- Set camera to Aperture Priority shooting mode and set a mid to high f-number, this was f13.
- This ensures everything is in focus from front to back of the scene.
- Check that your white balance matches the lighting conditions or set to custom white balance.
- Start shooting until your return to the same point of the last shot.
- Although this will be processed in HDR, I took one shot of each frame and did not use Exposure Bracketing common to HDR photography. More ahead in the next section.
Processing a 360 degree panaroma
Marc’s work flow:
- Shot in Raw format (habit). You can shoot in common JPEG format.
- I converted my shots to JPEG.
- Digitally stitched with PhotoShop Photomerge and save.
- Open the stitched as file type Camera Raw.
- In the Raw photo editor, save three JPEG exposures +2, 0, -2.
- Open the three JPEG exposures in Photomatix Pro and apply Tone Mapping / Details Enhancer.
- Save HDR processed file and open in PhotoShop for some final edits.
- Sit back and say “Coool!”
Let me know if you have any questions…always a pleasure. Comments are always welcomed too.
Did you have fun today?
Posted in Articles & News, Marc's Photos and Galleries
Also tagged 360, alley, aperture, back, bracketing, degree, details, digital, editor, enhancer, exposure, f-number, format, hdr, head, mapping, marc, panning, pano, panorama, panoramic, photo, photomatix, photomerge, photoshop, priority, pro, queen, raw, remote, shutter, stitching, street, tone, toronto
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What Does A Million Dollar Photo Look Like?
Anonymous Art Collector Purchases Peter Lik’s New England River Photo, ‘One,’ For $1 Million
Taken just after dawn, amid breathtaking New England fall foliage, the photograph resembles an Impressionist painting more than any nature photograph. Says Lik, “I will never forget this morning for the rest of my life. It was calm, and the scent of the fall forest filled my lungs. The mist cleared, and a magical reflection in the river briefly appeared White birch trees, black trunks, a kaleidoscope of foliage combining to reveal an illusion of three dimensions. I pressed the shutter – once – and then the scene vanished with the morning breeze, never to be seen again.” The single opportunity, the unity of the elements, and Lik’s oneness with the moment and nature, inspired him to name the photograph One.
SOURCE Peter Lik http://www.prnewswire.com
Please visit Peter Lik’s blog.
The buyer, a private art collector represented by Joel Ehrenkranz of the law firm Ehrenkranz & Ehrenkranz LLP, completed the purchase in December and asked to remain anonymous.
Special thanks to Sherry Anderson (aka SherA) for reporting the story at Sharing Digital Photography Worldwide Forums.
Have you found something out of the ordinary? Tell us about it.
Posted in Articles & News
Also tagged blog, business, dollar, lik, media, million, one, peter, photo, photograph, press, united
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Turning Photography Into Fun Concepts
Do you ever get an idea to do something creative with your photography skills? You come up with something imaginative and you can kind of visualize it. That just happened to me again. OK then, let’s see what transpires this time.
Hands on practice is always the best teacher and it sticks better. Take chances and have some fun.
Do you have some ideas bubbling?
My project needs the following ingredients:
- An egg
- An egg carton
- Bunch of head shots with a variety of expressions
And the results…
(Click image to enlarge)
Getting started.
I’m using a tripod and a remote shutter release. In lieu of the remote shutter release, you can use the self timer function common to all digital cameras to take your self portraits. Be sure to set the white balance and use the same setting for all your shots. I used the Custom White Balance setting.
Recipe for photo shooting fun:
NOTE: Everything is shot under the same lighting for visual continuity.
- Set up the egg carton and take some shots.
- Chew a piece of gum. Really, I’m not kidding.
- Put the gum under the base of the egg to hold it upright and take some shots.
- Now for your acting debut. Take several head shots of yourself or someone with various expressions.
Baking instructions: (Summary editing “outline”)
This is a lot to digest mentally for novices, but even beginning to understand the concepts brings you a step closer.
- First, the egg carton. Review those photos on your computer and pick the one you like best. I had to straighten mine just a little.
- Onto the egg heads. I chose the expressions of my head shots and cut out the faces with the polygon lasso and a really soft feathered setting. Then put the faces on the egg and size the faces to fit.
- Throughout the whole project, you’re being mindful of matching levels and colors so the faces and eggs blend.
- I duplicate the face layer and apply a strong gaussian blur, then add a layer mask to the top face layer. Using soft edge brush at about 33%, soften the edges and give yourself a smoothing face lift. When done, merge the two face layers. Repeat for each face.
- All your egg faces are done. You’re going to make it appear as if the egg heads are in the carton. For the front row, cut out (select) and copy the front of the egg carton, then paste into a new layer in the exact position as in the original carton image layer. This layer will be above (in front) of the original carton image and egg heads. When you place the front row of egg heads, it gives the illusion they are sitting in the carton.
- Place and size the three front row egg heads behind the front cut out of the carton. Add some shadows according to the light you used. You can use the burn tool for shadows and the dodge tool for some gentle highlights.
- For the second row of egg heads, using the original carton layer again, cut out the second row of carton peeks with any part of the carton you need to be in front of the back row of egg heads and place in your layers order accordingly.
- Place your final egg heads noting the ones in the second row are just a little softer to simulate depth of focus. Simply apply a light gaussian blur to the second row egg heads.
- Is it time for coffee?
The most important step: adding shadows
My art training gives me a hand up, but so does your experience in photography and understanding light.
Shadows are the key to adding realism. Not too much or too little. Take a close look at the shadows on both the egg heads and the carton. In the history panel, I add snapshots regularly for benchmarks I can return to when I don’t like how things are going – I don’t have to start from the beginning.
I can give you a good foundation and the confidence to started with PhotoShop and PhotoShop Elements. You just have to get started with a free online course at the HP Learning Center.
PhotoShop versus PhotoShop Elements. What’s the difference?
PhotoShop
- PhotoShop is the professional industry standard on the planet for photography and graphic design.
- Purchase cost is higher the PhotoShop Elements.
PhotoShop Elements
- Used to be touted as the scaled down version of PhotoShop but in recent years has become very robust with features and support for RAW files across all major camera manufacturers.
- A fraction of the price of PhotoShop and geared more specifically to digital photographers.
- More Auto Fix and Guided features for beginners and novice.
- Lots of advanced editing features if you want to go deeper.
How to get a free 30 day trail download.
When you go to Adobe.com’s download site, you have to create an account. It’s free and you get the privilege of access to all downloads and other cool resources.
Have fun!
Shooting Big Scenes Outdoors Canon 24-105mm
How to shoot big scenes with depth.
The secret’s of photography continue to unfold. How’d you do that?
It’s combination of finding a scene that works, knowing how to engage the right camera functions and you.
First, let’s view a few photos. Samples with interesting foreground textures in portrait orientation. Everything is focused from front to back in each scene. A stronger consideration is to include interesting foreground elements in the composition. You can do this too. Let’s see how.
Big nature scene wide angle shooting technique:
- When you find a beautiful scene, try and have something interesting in the foreground as a visual stepping stone into the view. Clouds also add gorgeous textures.
- Get a really long dept of focus from front to back – here’s how…
- Set the f-number (aperture) to at least 10, about 14 or higher if you can. Use Aperture Priority or if you’re more experienced, Manual shooting mode.
- Use the focal range at or just below 50mm. Going really wide at 24mm just means correcting typical barrel distortion or keeping it and calling it “creative”.
- Because you’re restricting light with a large f-number (=small aperture), you may need to increase the ISO( if you are not using a tripod) to attain a hand-held shutter speed of a minimum 1/30 of a second.
- What’s best portrait or landscape orientation? Portrait orientations sometimes work best when you have excellent foreground elements as noted in the first point and the photo samples you’ve just seen.
- A tripod helps avoid increasing the ISO setting, so slower shutter speeds can be used. Use the self timer or a remote shutter release avoiding any movement caused by depressing the shutter button.
- Train wild animals to do tricks in your shots.
Everyone develops their own shooting techniques and styles over time.
Canon 24-105mm Lens
You don’t need this specific lens to accomplish such shots. It’s just a preferred lens at this time.
This lens is used frequently. A narrow balance between zoom and wide angle that works great for travel photography, portraits and even some macro shooting. Short, light, easy around the neck and quality L grade glass. My main uses are largely outdoors, be it in a metropolis, a canyon desert or a Venetian market. It works for my needs and the way I shoot today. It’s been great for commercial product photography and editorial shots. I’d consider this one for real estate listing and publications photos too.
The built in IS (Image Stabilization) will buy you a few f-stops for handheld shots in low light conditions, thus increasing the ISO less often and avoiding the associated digital noise (graininess). For macro shooting (close up photography), the minimum focus distance is about .45 metres or 1.5 feet. Out of the box it comes complete with leather bag, lens cap and hood, and the usual user guide.
In the Canon L lens line up, this one is well priced. An L lens is Canon’s pro grade designation identified by the thin red line around the outer front of the lens. These are designed for full frame sensors but can be used on the smaller Canon SLR camera sensor line up. I purchased my first L lens before I had a full frame sensor camera knowing it was an investment and that I would eventually move up to a full frame digital camera.
Well cared for, L grade lenses hold their value very well.
Specifications Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM
- Focal Length & Maximum Aperture: 24-105mm f/4
- Lens Construction: 18 elements in 13 groups
- Diagonal Angle of View: 84° – 23° 20′ (with full-frame camera)
- Focus Adjustment: Inner focusing system with focusing cam
- Closest Focusing Distance: 1.48 ft./0.45m
Zoom System: 5-group helical zoom (front group moves: 32.5mm)
Filter Size: 77mm - Max. Diameter x Length, Weight: 3.3 in. x 4.2 in., 23.6 oz. / 83.5mm x 107mm, 670g (lens only)
Summary of potential uses:
- Big scenes, outdoors nature, urban, suburban, travel.
- Commercial product catalog photography.
- Editorial shots.
- Real estate listings and publications.
If you have any questions, you’re welcomed to share them. I’m glad to help.
Posted in Articles & News, Gear and Accessories, Marc's Photos and Galleries
Also tagged 100, 100mm, 24, 24-100mm, 24mm, angle, aperture, Canon, clouds, commercial, EF, f-number, f-stops, f/4L, image, IS, iso, lens, macro, nature, Photography, priority, product, remote, scenes, self, shutter, specifications, stabilization, timer, USM, wide
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Toronto Canada Skyline Photos & City Views
A gallery of perspectives in one of the great cities of the world.

A city rich with cultures of the planet is the ultimate human melting pot. Cuisine, entertainment and neighborhoods so diverse. Cultural events of every kind make up the colorful quilt of Toronto. Whether it’s the twinkling skyline view on an evening cruise or a burst of fiery color from a bucket of fresh florals at a corner market, it’s feast for the eyes.
Night time is a favorite for photography. I’ll park, load my gear pack and tripod and walk the streets well into the wee hours of the morning.
Tips for night photography:
- Long exposures like skyline shots you’ve seen here require a tripod.
- Use the self timer feature or a remote shutter release. Pressing the shutter button can cause slight movement and compromise the shot.
- Can’t focus, not enough light? Find a point of light the skyline scene, with the center AF point selected, partially depress the shutter to engage the focus. Then switch the lens to manual focus. Recompose the scene and shoot. Or simply use manual focus.
- Always keep composition in mind.
- Speak politely to police officers.
Sometimes I can be quite a distance from the city skyline. A 100-400mm lens seems to do the trick. I can get by using the 70-300mm. For the larger heavier telephoto lens, I need a sturdy tripod so it doesn’t jiggle. A solid mag fiber tripod is what I’m using. This tripod is only slightly heavier than carbon fiber and gets the job done.
Have fun experimenting! Got a question or comment? Use the Post a Comment box and share it.
Posted in Articles & News, Marc's Photos and Galleries
Also tagged af, canada, carbon, city, composition, cultures, events, exposures, fiber, fibre, focus, gallery, lens, long, mag, manual, melting, night, Photography, point, pot, recompose, remote, shoot, shutter, slyline, time, tips, toronto, tripod, views
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